Monday, December 28, 2015

Pasture Management

Resource: Horse Extension/Pasture management

Managing established horse pastures

Krishona Martinson, PhD and Paul Peterson, PhD, University of Minnesota
Pastures need management attention to produce large amounts of good quality forage throughout the growing season. However, most horse owners may be surprised by the amount of management it takes to achieve quality pastures. This publication is designed to help horse owners manage their pasture throughout the grazing season.

Stocking rate

The stocking rate is the total number of pasture acres available per horse. Generally speaking, a stocking rate of 2 acres per 1000 lb horse is recommended if the pasture is expected to provide most of the feed and nutrition for the horse during the growing season; eg. For 5 horses averaging 1000 lb, 10 acres of well managed pasture is needed. However, there is a range in the stocking rate which is determined by soil type, environmental conditions and management practices. If well-managed pasture on fertile soil is provided mainly for exercise and supplemental grazing, only 1 acre per horse may be needed. With less management and less productive soil, as much as 5 acres per horse may be needed. In general, higher stocking rates will require more hay supplementation.

Sacrifice area

Typical sacrifice area
Figure 1. Typical sacrifice area
A sacrifice area is a designated paddock or area where horses are kept during times when adequate forage is not present or the pasture is resting or too wet (Figure 1). The sacrifice area usually turns into dirt and is also called a dry lot or holding area. The sacrifice paddock is also commonly used for hay and grain feeding and usually contains the horse's water source and shelter. Sizes of sacrifice areas vary, but should be large enough for comfortable, long-term housing of horses.

Pasture entry

In spring, keep horses off pastures until the ground firms up and the grass has a chance to get growing. Once the grass is 6 inches tall, start easing the horses onto the grass in 15 to 30 minute increments. Gradually increase the amount of time in the pastures over the course of several weeks.
Begin grazing when tall cool-season forages (eg. smooth bromegrass and orchardgrass) are 8-10" tall and short cool-season forages (eg. Kentucky bluegrass and perennial ryegrass) are 4-6" tall. Remove horses from the pasture when tall cool season forages are 3-4" tall and short cool season forages are 1-2" in height, or you have exceeded your grazing time limit (Table 1). Adequate rest and recovery periods are essential to maintaining desirable pasture plants with good productivity.
Table 1. Rotational grazing paddock designs for horses based on 2, 3, 4, or 5 paddocks.
Number of paddocksSpringSummerFall
Days of grazing per paddockDays rested per paddockDays of grazing per paddockDays rested per paddockDays grazing per paddockDays rested per paddock
2141442422828
371421421428
451514421030
54161144728

Rotational grazing

Rotational grazing is a practice that, if done correctly, can help increase your pasture productivity. Rotational grazing is dividing the pasture area into several small paddocks. When a horse finds an area in the pasture that has the type of forage they prefer, they will usually keep on grazing this area and disregard the rest of the pasture. Because of the continuous grazing, the preferred species or areas become weak and can't compete with less desirable plants such as weeds.
Rotationally grazing your pasture should also allow appropriate rest periods. In fact, the key to pasture productivity with any rotational grazing design is providing adequate rest periods for pasture recovery and being flexible depending on the season. For example, in spring, only 2 weeks of rest per paddock may be needed, in summer 6 weeks may be needed, and in fall 4 weeks may be needed. Generally speaking, grass growth potential is high in spring, low in summer, and moderate in fall. With fewer paddocks, or during the summer months, horses may need to be held in a sacrifice paddock since it is highly unlikely a paddock can sustain 14 to 42 days of continuous grazing without becoming over grazed. In these situations hay supplementation will most likely be needed. Remember, resting the pasture is essential and allows the forages to store carbohydrates (energy) in their roots and regrow vigorously.
Rotational grazing does not need to be complicated. Table 1 give guidelines for rotational grazing based on 2, 3, 4, or 5 paddocks. In some cases (early in spring with 5 paddocks) horses may need to be rotated before the pasture has been adequately grazed. In this case, horse owners may hay the paddock, or mow the forage to a height of approximately 4".
Rotational grazing also contributes to better manure management. Instead of one or two big dropping areas, there are several smaller ones throughout the pasture. Smaller manure piles dry and break up faster, reducing fly numbers and odor. Dragging the paddock helps break up the piles, dries out the manure, and distributes nutrients back to the pasture. Dragging should be done when horses are rotated out of the paddock.

Fencing options

Good, safe fences are essential for rotational grazing. Horse owners should follow the BASIC rules, which are Budget, Appearance, Safety, Installation and Containment. The external fence (around the entire pasture) should be permanent and safe (i.e. no barbed wire). Electric fencing is generally the most economical, especially for internal subdivisions. Consult a reputable dealer with experience with horse fencing for more information.

Pastures and laminitis

Founder, also known as laminitis, is an inflammation or swelling of the laminae or tissues that connects the hoof wall to the coffin bone. Most vets say a horse has "foundered" when they have signs of pain in their feet, increased digital pulses and swelling in the lamina that may potentially lead to rotation or sinking of the coffin bone.
The most common laminitis relates to nutrition and diet. Rapid intake of starches or fructans (a sugar) stored in pasture plants can cause laminitis. Fructans are the primary reserve carbohydrate stored in cool season grasses like orchardgrass, bromegrass, and timothy. Sugar content is highest when grass is in the vegetative state (early spring and during re-growth); during periods of cool nights and warm sunny days (fall or early spring); after a hard freeze; and during drought conditions. Careful pasture management by horse owners with sensitive horses is essential. Good pasture management entails not overgrazing, limiting grazing time, and/or using a grazing muzzle.
Grazing should also be limited during times of environmental stress on plants such as drought. It is important not to over graze pastures as the lowest stems often contain the highest amount of sugar. Avoid grazing on pastures with lots of seed heads as they also contain high amounts of sugar. Introducing horses to lush spring pasture gradually will reduce the chance of laminitis.

Weed control

Weed control in pastures is a challenge for most horse owners. Weeds are generally less palatable, less nutritious, lower yielding, and are less dependable as a forage supply for horses. Good grazing management will reduce weed problems, but often not completely eliminate them since horses are such selective grazers. Some common pasture weeds are also poisonous or harmful (i.e. white snakeroot and hoary alyssum) or on the Minnesota Noxious Weed List (i.e. thistles). There are three types of weeds; annuals, biennials and perennials. Annuals complete their life cycle in one growing season. Biennials require two growing seasons to complete their life cycle, and perennials can live for three or more years.
Mowing pastures to a height of 4" three to four times a year, or after horses are rotated out of a paddock, will keep most annual weeds from becoming a problem. Mowing also helps to even out the pasture area and stimulate vegetative regrowth. Make sure to mow weeds at or before flowering to prevent new seeds from entering the soil.
Apply herbicides selectively and carefully, and only if necessary. Applying herbicides in the spring or summer will help control annual and biennial weeds, however, mowing should be adequate for effective control. For effective perennial weed control, keep mowing throughout the growing season to prevent seeds from forming and to keep plants in the vegetative stage. Apply herbicides in early fall (around September 1st) for the most effect control of perennials.
If you have a mixed pasture (legumes like alfalfa or red clover and grasses), there are no herbicides you can use to selectively control the weed and not injure or kill the legumes or grasses. Mowing is the only weed control option for a mixed pasture. If you would like a mixed pasture, once weeds are under control, legumes can be over seeded.
Remember, a well managed pasture will out compete most weed species.

Soil testing and fertilization

Take a soil sample to determine if your pasture needs additional fertilizer. If it does, split the fertilizer in thirds and apply the fertilizer on major summer holidays (Memorial Day, 4th of July and Labor Day). Split applications of nitrogen (N) fertilizer provide the best yield distribution over the season.
Often, only nitrogen is needed in pastures since manure provides quite a bit of phosphorus (P) and Minnesota soils tend to be naturally higher in P and potassium (K). But if the field has been neglected or hayed, some K and P may be needed. Lime should be applied if soil pH is below 6.0. If you want alfalfa or other legumes in your pastures, lime the soil to pH 6.8. A soil test will give you information needed to manage your soil fertility and pH. To obtain a soil test kits, and for further instructions, go to the Soil Testing Laboratory website.
Only spread manure on your pastures if you have more than 2 acres per horse. Spreading additional manure (other than what the horse naturally leaves behind) on your pasture can result in greater chances of parasite exposure.

Seeding bare or overgrazed areas

August 15th to September 15th is the best time of year to seed or reseed your pastures (usually adequate moisture, less weed competition, and cool, desirable weather conditions). Common grass species used are orchardgrass, timothy, and smooth bromegrass. Turf-type lawn grasses like Kentucky bluegrass can be used for higher traffic areas and serve as a good base for your pasture. Low-endophyte forage-type tall fescues (also known as endophyte free fescue) can be used, but be sure to not use turf-type tall fescues in horse pastures as harmful fungal endophytes can be present that can cause reproductive problems and dry gangrene. Italian ryegrass can be used as a nurse crop (2-3 lb/ac) or seeded alone (25-35 lb/ac). Its high seedling vigor makes it easy to establish and compete with weeds.
Spring is also an acceptable time of year if you missed the fall deadline. April 1st to May 15th is the best time in the spring to reseed your pastures. If you are seeding into existing pastures, typically rates are 12-15 pounds per acre. Make sure you keep horses off newly seeded pastures until the grasses are well established and you have mowed 2 รข€“ 3 times. A no-till drill works best, but roughing up the area and broadcasting seeding can work, too. Keep in the mind, weed emergence usually increases with increased soil disturbance.
Mixed pasture seeding
Figure 2. Mixed pasture seeding of red clover and grass.
Example of mixed pasture seeding
  • Smooth bromegrass: 8-10 lb/ac
  • Orchardgrass: 3-5 lb/ac
  • Alfalfa: 3 lb/ac
  • Red clover: 2-3 lb/ac
Example of grass pasture seeding
  • Smooth bromegrass: 8-10 lb/ac
  • Orchardgrass: 3-5 lb/ac
  • Timothy: 3-5 lb/ac
Over- or Inter-Seeding into Grass Pasture
  • Red Clover: 5 lb/ac
  • White Clover: 2 lb/ac
  • Ryegrass: 10 lb/ac

Late fall and winter care

Some deciduous leaves can be deadly after a frost. Leaves that tend to be most toxic are those of red maple and cherry trees. Identify all such seasonally toxic trees in your pasture and keep horses from their fallen or frost damaged leaves for at least 30 days. Legumes like alfalfa, red clover, and white clover have higher bloat potential after frost. Nitrate toxicity can also be an issue after frost with some nitrate-accumulating plants. Generally, this is only a concern with some grass species where high nitrogen has been used and with some weeds that are known to be nitrate accumulators like lambsquarter and pigweed. It is recommended that horse owners wait up to a week after a killing frost before grazing alfalfa or clover-rich pastures or area where nitrate toxicity is a concern.
It is not recommended to keep horses on pasture over winter. There is minimal nutritional value in the dormant/dead grass and legumes. Hoof traffic and continuous grazing can cause considerable damage, which can result in weak plants or bare spots in the pasture the following spring and summer. During winter months, keep horses in a sacrifice area where they are fed hay, have water and shelter.

Conclusion

Following the below eight points will help boost your pasture productivity:
  1. Do not overstock or overgraze
  2. Have, and use if necessary, a sacrifice paddock
  3. Rotationally graze
  4. Each pasture paddock needs 2 - 6 weeks of rest depending on the season (Table 1)
  5. Soils test every 3 years
  6. Fertilize if needed (1-3 x per year)
  7. Mow and drag after each rotation
  8. Control weeds

Additional resources


Horse Hay

Horse Hay

Resource: 
Selecting and Storing Horse Hay - an article by UMN Extension

Selecting and storing horse hay

Krishona Martinson, PhD and Paul Peterson, PhD, University of Minnesota Extension
There are several characteristics horse owner should use to evaluate and purchase hay for their horses.

Content / Species

alfalfa grass hay mix
Figure 1. An alfalfa grass hay mix
mature grass hay (heads)
Figure 2. Mature grass hay (heads)
young grass hay (no heads)
Figure 3. Young grass hay (no heads)
interaction of forage quality and yield
Figure 4. Interaction of forage quality and yield
Determine the percent of grass and/or legumes in the hay (Figure 1). Common grasses include orchardgrass, bromegrass, timothy, fescue, reed canarygrass, and bluegrass. Common legume species include alfalfa, red clover, white clover, and sweet clover. In general, legumes (like alfalfa and clover) have a higher protein content than grasses, and leaves have more protein than other parts of the plant . Protein content of hay is also affected by stage of maturity at time of cutting, protein content decreases as the plant matures. In many cases, pure alfalfa hay has more protein than what the average horse needs. Although this will not affect the horse's health, it will increases water requirements and cause more urination that is high in ammonia. Some legumes are hard to dry (like red clover) when making hay, and therefore are at higher risk of molding.

Stage / Maturity

As forage plants mature, the nutritional value changes. Plants have more fiber and less protein as they mature. Indicators of maturity for legumes are flowers, and seed heads for grasses (Figure 2). Thick stems in both cases are indicators of maturity. Grasses harvested at early boot stage (when the seed head is just starting to form), have excellent fiber digestibility and energy availability, and will produce leafy hay (Figure 3). The leaf to stem ratio is also important. Leaves have more protein and digestible energy and less fiber than stems (Figure 4).

Touch

Horses' mouth, lips and tongue, are very soft; hence, softer hay will be consumed more readily, and there will be less waste. Even though some hay may meet or pass the nutritional requirements of a horse, it also has to be attractive and edible, or it will be wasted.

Smell

Sweet smell is attractive to people and horses, and it is also a good indication of having readily available energy (sugar). Much like soft touch, a sweet smell is an incentive for the horse to eat the hay and get its full nutritional value.

Color

Green is more attractive to those of us taking care of the animals, and it also is a good indication of having vitamin A. Bleached color indicates exposure to sunlight or rain and very likely oxidation of vitamin A, but other very essential nutrients are still there! Despite the color, any type of hay needs to be supplemented with an appropriate vitamin-mineral mix. Don't be too concerned about color, since weeds are also green in color.

Rain

Reduction in hay quality due to rain is greatest after the forage is partially dried. Dry matter losses of 22% were observed when alfalfa was exposed to 1 inch of rain after 1 day of drying. Similar hay without rain damage lost only 6.3%. Sugars and fructans are water soluble, so if the hay is rained on (or soaked in water), the overall non-structural carbohydrate (i.e. sugar) content will be reduced. However, good quality, rained on hay can actually benefit horses that are sensitive to forage sugar content. Bottom line, quality, rained on hay can be fed to horses.

Cutting

Just knowing whether the hay is 1st, 2nd or 3rd crop does not predict nutrient content. The stage of maturity at which the hay was cut is the foundation of its nutritional value. Plants that grow under cooler temperatures build more digestible fiber. Therefore, 1st crop hay may have more fiber, and the fiber will be easier for the horse to digest and use.

Moisture

Horse quality hay should be baled between 13 and 17% moisture. Hay over 18% is at risk of molding, and hay baled above 25% is at risk of severe heat damage and serves as a potential fire hazard. The use of propionic acid can be used to help prevent molding of hay at time of bailing, and is usually used when the hay is between 17 to 25% moisture. Propionic acid treated hay can have a slight acidic smell, however, it is safe for horses.

Mold

Virtually all feed has some mold spores. The presence of excessive mold if inhaled by the horse may cause coughing, heaves or allergic reactions. Horses with heaves are often particularly sensitive to mold spores or dust. Before purchasing hay, be sure to inspect the inside of at least one bale. If the hay has been stored inside and is not moldy, then the risk of it getting moldy is very low. Even though little research has been conducted on the effect of feeding moldy hay to horses, it is not recommended to feed horses moldy hay.

Bale type

Hay can be baled in a variety of ways, and depending on your storage and feeding methods, each type has pros and cons. Small square bales (40 to 80 lbs.) are easy to handle and store, and are a common bale type used by horse owners. Small square bales, if stored and fed properly, usually have less waste than round bales and medium or large square bales. However, small square bales can be very labor intensive. Round bales (800 to 1,200 lbs.) are also commonly used by horse owners, but because of their size, a tractor or skid loader is usually required for movement. Round bales can be less labor intensive compared to small square bales, but excessive waste can be an issue if they are stored improperly or fed without being placed in a feeder. It's also important to have enough horses (i.e. more than one) feeding off a round bale to reduce the amount of waste over time. Medium or large square bales (800 to 1,200 lbs.) have gained popularity with horse owners over the past few years, and have the same advantages and disadvantages of round bales. However, medium or large square bales tend to stack better and can be more easily "flaked" off for individual feeding compared to round bales.

Storage

Net wrapped round bale
Figure 5. Net wrapped round bale
Twine wrapped round bale
Figure 6. Twine wrapped round bale
When it comes to hay storage, there are a few things horse owners can do to help guarantee their hay will stay in good condition and have minimum losses.
  1. Water/animal proof the area. If you stack hay under a leaky roof, it will grow moldier with each rain. Plug rat and mouse holes and attempt to detour larger wildlife, such as raccoons, from moving in during winter months. Not only do these animals deposit feces, but they can also chew through twine, making a mess out of your hay storage area.
  2. Do not stack hay directly on the ground.Stacking bales on pallets encourages air circulation beneath the bales and can help prevent the bales from "wicking-up" condensation from the ground. Hay bales stored on wet surfaces can have as much as 50% spoilage. 
  3. Use older hay first. As long as moisture entry is completely avoided from any direction, and the hay was adequately dry when put into storage, it should keep indefinitely (Table 1). In Midwest climates, high humidity might increase moisture content and reduce storage life, so feeding hay within three years of purchase is recommended. Regardless, it's a good practice to always use older hay first. 
  4. Round bales should be stored end-to-end in a "sausage" type formation to reduce waste. Stacking large round bales (on top of one another) usually increases losses, especially if they are stored outside. Stacking tends to trap moisture and limits drying from sun and wind. Studies have shown outdoor storage losses for round bales range between 5 and 35 percent depending on the amount of precipitation, storage site location, and original condition of the bale (Table 2). To help minimize this loss, buy dense bales as they will sag less and have less surface area in contact with the ground. Buy bales with plastic twine or net wrap (Figure 5) as they will resist weathering, insects, and rodents better than natural fiber twines (Figure 6). Store bales on a well drained site (if outside). Finally, never store round bales under trees or in low lying area. It is highly recommended that bales that are stored outside have some type of cover placed over them (a tarp). The outer four-inch layer of a six-foot diameter round bale contains about 25 percent of the total bale volume and is most likely to be damaged by weather if stored improperly or unprotected (Table 2). Storage losses are usually reduced by approximately two-thirds with indoor storage and by one-half with good plastic covering outdoors.
Table 1. Longevity of Stored Hay
Hay Storage Options
Storage Longevity (Years)
Dry Matter Loss (%)
Conventional Shed
20
4 to 7
Tarped on Pallet
5
4 to 7
Net Wrap on Ground
1
15 to 25
Twine on Ground
1
25 to 35
Table 2. Percentage of Round Bale Volume Affected
Bale Dimensions
Depth of Weathered Layer in Inches
2
4
6
8
Width
Diameter
% of bale volume weathered
4'
4'
16
31
44
56
4'
5'
13
25
36
46
5'
6'
11
21
31
40

Hay testing

Hay can be analyzed or tested to determine the following: moisture, protein, minerals, sugar, energy, and more. DHIA (320-352-2028), Dairyland (320-240-1737) and the Minnesota Veterinary Diagnostic laboratory (612-625-8787) can test hay for these qualities. Be sure to request an equine analysis and remember that the analysis is only as good as the sample you submit.

Out state hay needs

The certified noxious weed seed free forage program is designated to assure that certified forage meets the minimum standards designed to limit the spread of noxious weeds. In Minnesota, there are no areas where certified forage (hay) must be used. When trail riding and camping in public parks, it is considered voluntary to use certified hay. However, if you are planning a trail ride or camping trip with your horse on public lands in the western U.S., then certified hay must be used. For a current list of producers of certified noxious weed seed free forage in Minnesota, please call the MN Crop Improvement Association at 800-510-6242.

Additional information

For more information, visit the horse nutrition section of this site.

TheHorse.com resources
Understanding Round and Square Bale Hay for Horses, Part 2 (coming soon)

Thursday, December 17, 2015

Tack & Riding Attire

Tack

Introduction

tack
Tack is the term used to describe the gear and equipment used to ride horses.
Common pieces of tack include:
  • Halter: A halter is head gear used to lead or tie up livestock.
  • Saddle: The saddle is a piece of tack that the rider sits on while riding a horse.
  • Bridle: The bridle is a piece of tack that is worn on the horse's head and helps the rider control and guide the horse.
Tack should be selected based on what the horse and rider will be doing. A cowboy out on the ranch, a jockey riding racehorses, and an English rider jumping fences all use different tack. Tack is designed to help the rider and the horse accomplish their goals; two main styles of tack are Western and English.

Western Saddle

western saddle

THE WESTERN SADDLE
The Western saddle is commonly used for both work and pleasure (See figure 1). There are a variety of types of western saddles: roping saddles, barrel saddles, trail saddles, pleasure saddles, and endurance saddles.   






  

Figure 1: Western Saddle

THE TREE
The tree is the "backbone" of the Western saddle (See figure 2).  The entire saddle is built around the tree.  It's called a tree because it's traditionally made of wood.  Usually softer woods are chosen for flexibility. 
Once constructed, the tree is then covered with rawhide for strength and durabilittreey.  Rawhide is animal skin that has had the fur and fat removed and has been stretched.  Bull hide is the first choice due to its strength and weight.  Finally, the tree is covered in varnish to seal it. 
The finished product is a strong, yet flexible tree.  Often, synthetic materials are used instead of real wood.  Some saddle makers don't use synthetic trees due to a fear of them being of lower quality.                                                                                                                                 
Figure 2: Western Saddle Tree

PARTS OF THE WESTERN SADDLE
It's important to learn the what the various parts of the Western saddle are called and what their purpose is.  Below is a drawing with the various parts of the saddle labeled. 

Parts of Western Saddle


PARTS OF THE WESTERN SADDLE EXPLAINED:
Saddle Horn:  The saddle horn was originally added to the Western saddle as a way to help in roping cows.  Cowboys use the saddle horn to wrap the rope around when catching cattle.  Over the years, the use of the saddle horn has changed.  It can be a handy hook to hang things on as well as a safety device for the rider when the ride gets rough. 
Swell: The swell is constructed as a way to attach the saddle horn, however it also helps keep the rider in the saddle.
Latigo or Cinch Strap: The latigo (or cinch strap) is a strip of leather or nylon that is used to connect the cinch to the rigging. You can control how tightly the saddle is sitting on the horse by pulling the latigo tight or leaving it loose.
Fender: The fender helps protect the rider's legs from the sweat of the horse and the rigging used to connect the stirrups to the saddle.
Stirrup: The stirrups are used to hold the feet of the rider.  The stirrups help the rider stay in the saddle.
Cinch: The cinch is a wide strap that fits under the horse and attaches to the rigging.  The cinch is what secures the saddle to the back of the horse.
Rigging: Rigging is a series of metal rings and plates used to connect the stirrups to saddle and to secure the saddle around the horse.
Seat: The seat is the part of the saddle that the rider sits on.
Seat Jockey: The seat jockey protects the tree (the "backbone" of the saddle) as well as protects the rider's legs from rubbing on the rigging  and the fender.
Cantle: The cantle secures the rider so that they don't slide off the back of the saddle. 
Skirt: The skirt helps distribute the weight of the rider over a larger surface, making the saddle more comfortable for the horse.  The skirt also helps protect the horse from the tree. 
Gullet: The gullet is the open space under the saddle horn and between the swells.  The gullet rides on top of the horse's withers.  When the saddle is on the horse, the gullet should not touch the withers of the horse.  A person should be able to fit 3-4 fingers between the top of the gullet and the top of the withers.

Western Bridle

THE WESTERN BRIDLE:
The bridle is a combination of multiple pieces of leather and metal that aid the rider in controlling the horse.  See figure 1. The bridle is worn on the horses head.  The bit is worn in the horse’s mouth. Although all bridles serve the same purpose (to control and communicate with the horse), there are many different styles available. A horse person can choose the style of headstall, bit and reins they want to be included in their bridle.  

PARTS OF THE WESTERN BRIDLE
Western bridle parts
PARTS OF THE WESTERN BRIDLE EXPLAINED:
Headstall: The term headstall is used to describe the crown piece, browband, throat latch, and cheek piece collectively (curb strap/chain, bit, and rein are not included in the headstall).
Crown Piece: The crown piece is a strip of leather that runs over the poll (top of the head) and connects to the cheek pieces. The crown piece applies pressure to the poll when the reins are pulled, allowing the rider to control the horse.
Browband: The browband is a small strip of leather that is attached to the crown piece. The browband prevents the bridle from slipping off the horse's head or down its neck.
Throatlatch: Much like the browband, the throatlatch prevents the bridle from slipping out of position. The throatlatch runs around the horse’s neck, and rests just behind the jaw.
Cheek Piece: The cheek pieces rest on the cheek of the horse and are connected to the crown piece. The length of the cheek pieces can be adjusted to ensure that the bit fits properly in the horse's mouth.
Curb Strap/Chain: The curb strap (or chain) rests under the chin of the horse and is connected to the bit. The curb chain applies pressure to the chin when the reins pull on the bit. This helps the rider in controlling the horse.
Bit: The bit is usually made of metal (most commonly steel, aluminum, and a little copper) and rests on top of the horse's tongue in their mouth. The primary purpose of the bit is to create pressure in the horse's mouth allowing the rider more control. Bits come in a variety of shapes and sizes.  Many Western riders use snaffle bits with young horses and while training.  Curb bits are commonly used by Western riders on horses that are well broke. 
                                      curb and snaffle bits
                                                              Figure 2: Curb and Snaffle Bits
Rein: Reins consist of two narrow, but long, strips of leather that are connected to the bit and are long enough to run down the horse's neck and reach the riders hands. Reins allow the rider to control the amount of pressure the bit produces. Reins also place pressure on the side of the horse's neck helping the rider's communicate what they would like the horse to do.

English Saddle

English SaddleTHE ENGLISH SADDLE
The English saddle is commonly used for jumping, but can also be used for riding on flat surfaces.  There are many different styles of English saddles, but the most common are hunt seat and saddle seat.  Different saddles are better suited for different activities.  For example, a saddle used for jumping can be different than a saddle used for riding on flat surfaces. 
Much like the Western saddle, the English saddle is also built around a tree.  The tree is the "backbone" of the saddle.



PARTS OF THE ENGLISH SADDLE

 english saddle 1 parts of english saddle 2
PARTS OF THE ENGLISH SADDLE
Skirt: The skirt helps protect the riders legs from rubbing on the tree and other pieces that hold the saddle together.
Pommel: The pommel creates a more secure seat for the rider.  The shape of the pommel also determines the comfort level for the horse.
Knee Roll: The knee roll offers the rider comfort and support.  Not every english saddle is equiped with knee rolls.
Stirrup-Iron: The stirrup-irons are where the rider places their feet while riding.
Flap: The flap is designed to protect the rider from the sweat of the horse.  The flap can be shaped differently depending on what the saddle is to be used for.
Stirrup Leather: The stirrup leather is usually 1" wide and is used to connect the stirrup-iron to the saddle.
Cantle: The cantle allows the rider to maintain a proper seat position while riding.
Seat: The seat is where the rider sits while riding.
Billets: The billets are long straps with buckles on them.  The billets are buckled to the girth to anchor the saddle to the back of the horse.
Girth: The girth, which buckles to the billetts, goes underneath the horse to secure the saddle to the back of the horse.

English Bridle

THE ENGLISH BRIDLE
The English bridle is very similar to the Western bridle, with a few minor differences such as the caveson and flash. Although slightly different, the English bridle serves the same purpose as the Western bridle which is to control and communicate with the horse.

 english bridle parts

PARTS OF THE ENGLISH SADDLE EXPLAINED:
Headstall: The term headstall is used to describe the crown piece, browband, throat latch, and cheek piece collectively (caveson, flash, bit, and reins are not included in the headstall).
Crown Piece: The crown piece is a strip of leather that runs over the poll (top of the head) and connects to the cheek pieces. The crown piece applies pressure to the poll when the reins are pulled allowing the rider to control the horse.
Browband: The browband is a small strip of leather that is attached to the crown piece. The browband prevents the bridle from slipping off the horse's head or down its neck.
Throatlatch: Much like the browband, the throatlatch prevents the bridle from slipping out of position. The throatlatch runs around the horse’s neck, and rests just behind the jaw.
Cheek Piece: The cheek pieces rest on the cheek of the horse and are connected to the crown piece. The length of the cheek pieces can be adjusted to ensure that the bit fits properly in the horse's mouth.
Cavesson: The caveson is a noseband that is worn around the horse's nose. The cavesson can serve many purposes such as helping to control and communicate with the horse as well as a way to attach additional tack to the bridle. See figure 1.
Flash: The flash is worn snuggly around the nose of the horse to teach the horse how to properly use the bit as well as to keep the bit in position.  See figure 2.
Englsih bridle with caveson                                 english bridle with caveson and flash
                         Figure 1. English bridle with Caveson                             Figure 2. English bridle with caveson and flash

Bit: The bit is usually made of metal (most commonly steel, aluminum, and a little copper) and rests on top of the horse's tongue. The primary purpose of the bit is to create pressure in the horse's mouth allowing the rider more control. Bits come in a variety of shapes and sizes, however most English riders use a snaffle bit (see figure 3).
 snaffle Bits
                                                                       Figure 3. Various snaffle bits
Reins: Reins consist of two narrow, but long, strips of leather that are connected to the bit and are long enough to run down the horse's neck and reach the rider's hands. Reins allow the rider to control the amount of pressure the bit produces. Reins also place pressure on the side of the horse's neck helping the rider communicate what they would like the horse to do.

Other Tack

OTHER TACK
There are other pieces of tack that are necessary when working with horses.  A few of these pieces include the halter, lead rope, saddle blanket, and breast collar.
Halter:  The halter is a is piece of tack worn on the horse's head.  The halter allows the handler to connect a rope to the halter, which is around the horse's head.  This allows the handler to lead the horse as well as tie the horse to a fence rail or trailer while working with it. See figure 1.
Halter on Palamino
     Figure 1: Halter
Lead Rope: The lead rope is connected to the halter.  The handler holds onto the lead rope while working with the horse.  The lead rope is also used to tie the horse.
                                           Lead Rope
                                                                 Figure 2: Lead Rope
Saddle Blanket: The saddle blanket is worn underneath the saddle.  The saddle blanket helps protect the horse from the saddle by providing padding, absorbing sweat, and making sure the saddle fits properly on the horse's back.  See figure 3 and 4.
saddle pad - western             square english saddle pad
         Figure 3: Western Saddle Pad                    Figure 4: English Saddle Pad
Breast Collar: The breast collar is worn across the chest of the horse and attaches to the saddle.  The breast collar prevents the saddle from slipping down the horse's back.  See figure 5.
Breast Collar - steer wrestler 
    Figure 5: Breast collar on horse

Riding Attire

Introduction

row of boots
Just as there are different styles of tack, there are also different styles of attire. Attire refers to the clothing worn by the rider or horse person. It's important to wear appropriate attire when working around horses or riding horses for the person's safety and comfort.
In this section you will learn about proper Western and English attire!

Western Attire

WESTERN RIDING ATTIRE
Typical western riding attire usually includes denim jeans, a long sleeve button down shirt, belt, cowboy boots and cowboy hat. Although many western riders spend their time in the show ring and not on the ranch, the traditional attire of the working cowboy has remained. That is why it’s still customary to see western competitors in cowboy hats, button up shirts, and denim jeans. See figure 1 and 2 for men's and women's western attire.
Western Attire male Western attire female
Figure 1: Men's Western attire (straw cowboy Hat) Figure 2: Women's Western attire (felt cowboy hat)
Cowboy Hat: Although the cowboy hat makes quite a fashion statement, the main purpose of the hat is to keep the rider cool while riding outside in the sun. The wide brim of the hat shades the rider's neck and face from the sun beating through the clouds. Many western rider's wear straw hats in the summer (see figure 1) to keep cool and felt hats in the winter to stay warm (See figure 2). The felt hats keep the heat from escaping the riders head, much like a stocking cap.
Long Sleeved Shirt: Long sleeved button down shirts are worn to protect the arms and upper torsos of western riders. They protect the riders from the sun as well as from trees and other objects that may scratch or cut them. These long sleeved shirts come in a variety of colors, designs, and fabrics, although they are typically a cotton blend.
Denim Jeans: Denim jeans are typically worn by western riders because of their durability. Due to the type of work that western riders usually participate in (ranching, working cattle, trail riding) a strong fabric is needed to protect their legs from becoming injured.
Belt: The belt is worn to ensure proper fitting of the jeans and to add style to the person's outfit (see figure 3). The belt is also used by western riders to showcase their prized belt buckles.
Sparkle Belts
Figure 3:There are many styles of western belts
Cowboy Boots: Cowboy boots are a necessity in any western rider's closet. Cowboy boots have tall tops that extend mid-calf and can have a pointed, round, or square shaped toe. All cowboy boots have a heel preventing the rider's foot from slipping through the stirrup which can be a very dangerous situation if the rider were to fall off. Overall, the cowboy boot protects the foot and makes working with and around horses safer. See figure 4.
Western Boot
Figure 4: Cowboy Boot with Spur
Spurs: Spurs are sometimes worn on the boots of western riders. Spurs are used to aid in the communication between the rider and the horse. The rider will nudge the horse's side with spurs to communicate with the horse. See figure 5.
Spurs
Figure 5: Western Spurs
Chaps: Chaps are also sometimes worn by western riders. Chaps add extra protection to the thighs and lower legs of the rider. It’s typical for a rider to wear chaps when working with cattle and out on the ranch. See figure 6.
chaps
(photo courtesy of Themightyquill)
Figure 6: Chaps on a Saddle Bronc Rider

English Attire

English AttireENGLISH ATTIRE
English attire is worn when a person is participating in jumping, dressage, fox hunting, and pleasure riding. See figure 1. English attire is quite different than western attire, however many of the items serve the same purpose.
Helmet: It's customary for english riders to wear a helmet while riding to protect their head if they were to fall.
Jacket: The jacket is worn to add style to the rider's attire.
Dress Shirt with Choker: Under the jacket a long or short sleeved dress shirt is worn. The dress shirt is usually white or a pastel color. A choker or collar is worn closely around the rider's neck with a decorative pin to add style to their outfit.
Breeches: Breeches are the pants worn by english riders. Breeches are made of a stretchy material and allow the rider to move freely in the saddle.
English Boots: English boots are tall black boots that stop just below the person's knee.
Spurs: Just like western riders, english riders wear spurs. English spurs allow the rider to communicate with the horse. See figure 2.
English Spurs
Figure 2: English Spurs